Troubleshooting Your Real Flame Fireplace


Indoor Electric Fireplaces

  • An 88 error code has appeared on the firebox screen. What should I do? 
    1.     First, unplug the unit for a minimum of one hour to allow the unit to do a factory reset.  Please ensure the firebox cord is not plugged into a surge protector, extension cord or power strip.  The firebox cord needs to be plugged directly into a wall socket and plugging it into anything else can be dangerous and damage the unit.  
    2.     While the unit is unplugged for the hour to reset, vacuum out the front and back vents or use compressed air to clean the vents.  Cleaning tends to resolve the 88 error code since this code is usually caused by lack of proper ventilation as a result of buildup of dust or debris in the vents. 
  • Where can I find a replacement remote control?
    We sell replacement remotes for our current fireboxes. All remotes can be ordered by calling the Real Flame Customer Service Department. To provide the correct remote we will need the model number of your firebox, which can be found on the back of the unit. Please note that we do not have remotes available for the 4097, 4099 or 4092 fireboxes since those units are discontinued. 

Outdoor Natural Gas or Propane Fire Tables

  • What are the main components of a gas fire table and what do they do?
    - Hose and regulator: The regulator connects to a standard 20 lb or 11 lb propane tank and regulates the flow of propane through the hose that connects to a valve on the underside of the fire table.
    - Natural gas hose and quick connect: The quick connect connects to the natural gas stub and regulates the flow of natural gas through the hose that connects to a valve on the underside of the table.
    - Electric ignitor and electrode: The electric igniter houses the battery. When the ignitor button is pressed, it will create an electrical current that runs through the electrode wire, up to the top of the unit, and creates a spark inside the igniter/pilot housing. You will know the spark is happening when you hear clicking. This will ignite the gas coming from the burn tube.
    - Thermocouple: This is a copper wire that is connected to the back of the valve on the underside of the fire table. It runs up to the top of the unit and ends inside the igniter/pilot housing. The job of the thermocouple is to keep the valve open and gas running through the unit when in use. The thermocouple will get hot from the flames and attract a magnet in the valve, keeping the valve open and the gas flowing.  This is also a safety feature to ensure that if the flames are ever blown out, the thermocouple will cool off, shut the valve, and stop the flow of gas.
    - Valve: A dial device that, when engaged, allows gas to flow from the hose up to the top of the table.
    - Knob: This controls the opening and closing of the valve.
    - Burn tube: A tube at the top of the table where gas and flames emit from.
    - Orifice: A small opening or hole built into the unit that allows the proper amount of gas to flow up to the burn tube.  Orifice sizes will vary based on the fuel source used.
    - Flex line: A flexible tube that allows gas flow between the valve and burn tube.  
  • I am unable to light my fire table.
    1. Confirm you can hear or smell gas when pressing, turning and holding the valve to the “light” position.
    2. If yes, replace the battery in the electric igniter and check that the wire(s) in the back are secure. You can also light the table manually with a long match lighter carefully.
    3. If you cannot light it manually, then the issue is a lack of gas flow.
        -  Propane: If there is a lack of gas flow, disconnect and reconnect the regulator that attaches the hose to the propane tank. If misaligned, the connection is not properly made and gas will not flow from the tank to the unit. If there is still a lack of gas flow, the  propane tank is empty or defective. Try a new propane tank. 
        -   Natural gas: If there is a lack of gas flow, confirm shut off valve is open so that gas can flow. If there is still a lack of gas flow, disconnect and reconnect the quick connect between the hose and your natural gas source. If you continue to have issues with gas flow, your gas technician or plumber will need to be contacted to  inspect the gas source.   
  • The valve is frozen.
    This is typically caused by moisture. It can happen in a humid environment, like near a body of water, or if the fire table is not used for an extended time. The valve may rust shut and we recommend replacing it. You can order a replacement valve from the Real Flame Customer Service Department. Please provide your model number.
  • My fire table will light but not stay lit.
    1. First, clear any fire glass or lava rock away from the igniter/pilot housing. That is the 2-inch box with holes along your burn tube on top of the table.  Inside the housing is the thermocouple. The thermocouple gets hot from the flames and attracts a magnet in the valve that keeps gas flowing. If the igniter/pilot housing is covered, the thermocouple may not be getting hot enough, which is why it may be shutting off.  Make sure flames are always engulfing the igniter/pilot housing.  On a windy day, if the flames are blown out or away from the igniter/pilot housing, the thermocouple will cool off which shuts the valve and stops the flow of gas. The thermocouple is a safety feature on the table, so if winds ever blow your flames out, the gas will stop flowing. 
    2. Make sure when lighting your table, your flames are tall and always engulfing the thermocouple. 
    3. Spiders: If you have a spider web blockage, then you will have low flames and the thermocouple will never get hot enough to keep your table lit. Spider webs are fireproof, and nests can cause blockage of gas flow and potentially low flames. To make it easier, we created this helpful how-to cleaning video.
    4. When initially lighting the table, do not release and turn the valve right away after the table lights.  Hold the valve in the light position for 15 seconds after you have flames to allow the thermocouple to get hot enough to attract the magnet.
    5. If the troubleshooting above does not work, try and hand-tighten the thermocouple tighter on the back of the valve and attempt to light the table again.  Do not overtighten with tools as this can damage the thermocouple.
    6. If all troubleshooting fails, we recommend  replacing both the thermocouple and valve. You can order a replacement thermocouple and valve from the Real Flame Customer Service Department. Please provide your model number.
  • The regulator at the end of the propane hose is leaking.
    This can happen when the regulator is hit with an object and gas will emit from an excess pressure point on the regulator.  Please replace the hose and regulator. You can order a new hose and regulator from the Real Flame Customer Service Department. Please provide your unit's model number when ordering. 
  • My table has low blue flames. (This is applicable for tables that have been converted from propane to natural gas. Not all Real Flame tables can be converted.)
    1. Confirm that the proper natural gas conversion kit for your fire table was installed. Fire tables required specific natural gas conversion kits. Check your owner’s manual or the  fire table’s product page on this website to find the number of the corresponding kit.
    2. If the table wasn’t properly converted and the propane orifice was left on and the natural gas orifice in the conversion kit was not used, you will have low blue flames because not enough gas is getting to the top of the table. There is a significant difference in gas pressure between propane and natural gas.  Propane requires a smaller opening since the pressure is higher.  If you leave the propane orifice on, the smaller opening in combination with low pressure natural gas will cause low blue flames.
    3. Check to see if the orifice has the proper MM opening size. The orifice is a small part installed at the end of the flex line and beginning of the burn tube. This part is stamped with the MM opening size. 
    4. If the correct orifice is installed on the table,  reach out to a plumber to check the pressure of your gas. 
    -   Manifold Pressure: 7.0” water column (1.74 kPa) 
    -   Minimum Inlet Pressure: 3.5” water column (0.87 kPa)
    -   Maximum Inlet Pressure: 10.5” water column (2.61 kPa)

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